Okay, I’m actually glad to get this review done. You see, I bought this beer on my fated one-day trip to Montreal last August. Shortly after buying it, I came down with pneumonia. For real. Then, the LCBO brought the 2010 vintage in for their winter release. So I thought, “ah ha, taste both vintages in one go, on the actual winter solstice (solstice d’hiver).” Except I got the flu. See a trend here? I’m surprised I’m drinking this, and not lying in bed fighting yellow-fever and scabies. But that is the case. It’s not the romantic vertical tasting I had dreamed, but still. It’s time to get this monkey off my back.
Solstice d'hiver - Dieu du Ciel!
From an ISB with a bottled-on date stamped into the side of the label (October 2009), the beer pours an opaque reddish-brown. Nearly no head, though a subtle ring lingers through most of the glass. Aroma is inky and boozy and lovely yeast esters. Definitely a lot of sweet malts. Perhaps a little licorice. Something a little smokey. This is weird, and I can’t substantiate it, I can only presume it’s psychosomatic, but I’m getting hints of Schwartz’s smoked meat. Something smokey tricking my mind? Perhaps. Maybe just wishful thinking. Who knows? The aroma is lovely, all the same. Whoa! Taste is amazing! Medicinal and super-dry for a barleywine! I wish I’d bought a few, I wonder if it was more juicy young. I wonder if it would hit cocoa tastes if it were older. Pondering aside, taste is a little reminiscent of whisky, boozy and a little smoky/woody. Yeasty spices tending towards pepper and ginger and maybe a little cinnamon. Plums/prunes and molasses and a hint of pumpernickle bread. A cola-like feeling on the finish. As it warms up, spices really start to pop: pepper and ginger in the forefront. Really cool beer, and very different then the 2010 I sampled at the LCBO. I really really wish I had been able to compare the two side-by-side. While this is nowhere near as sweet as most young barleywines, it’s complexity shows in yeast and spice notes; it’s a monster. Definitely a beer to savour, maybe even to share. Finish lingers in a spicy and dry way; not at all the warm sweet finish of so many barleywines, but this one has had time to grow up. It’s a funny old thing, how age removes some of the rough edges, some of the brashness. To the untrained, it removes the “fun” characteristics, but really, it brings out the harder to understand, yet much more fascinating traits. It takes longer to really connect and understand age. It’s especially hard for the young. But it’s hard to argue with. And in the case of barleywines, it’s worth the effort. Give these beers time to grow up, and you won’t be sorry (a side note: cellaring beer is way easier than wine. Upright and dark. Cap up and lights out. Ummmmm, standing at midnight. If you’re still confused, I can’t help…).
Sante, Dieu du Ciel! Despite having a massive reputation to live up to, you just keep doing it. I can’t wait to see you all at Mondial!
