CJM Brown Royale – Amsterdam Brewing Co.

I grew up in Scarborough.  While this effects me in a variety of different ways, a big one was in my beer upbringing.  I have no idea what the beer in my house was growing up.  It was in bottles and at a young age I would drink the little bit of backwash and settled-out head the day after people were over and there were bottles waiting to be returned.    I know, later in my childhood, that my Father anticipated driving trips to Buffalo so he could drink and bring back Michelob.  In high school, the only two beers I remember seeing at parties were Black Velvet and Canadian (spirits seemed to be more the thing, Absolut and CC mainly).  So when I was at beer drinking age, I got made fun of for buying Moosehead and Keith’s.  I just romanticised the east coast and Scottish/Irish connections; that the beer was better was inconsequential.  But that led to me wanting to drink other things that were different.  I got into Sleeman and Upper Canada pretty quickly.  So when I learned that there was a brewery right in downtown Toronto, I was stoked.  It was called Amsterdam, which was interesting and European.  I got down there quickly (probably stopping by MEC on my way).  It was incredible sitting in the pub, my first brewpub (yes, I know it was independently owned, but let’s not get pedantic here), looking on to the brewing floor and drinking the freshest beer I had ever had.  I became a consumer of Amsterdam that day and have regularly had them in my selection since.  Now, in the past few years, my tastes have broadened, my understanding of brewing and brewing culture has grown, and the amount of attention I pay to both has increased massively.  And while Amsterdam has moved into a bigger production facility, I think it’s fair to say that through most of the 00’s, they plateaued.  Production probably grew, but, for the most part, innovation stalled.  But that is all changing, and quickly.  Big Wheel was introduced, replacing their Dutch Amber.  While it wasn’t a life-changing beer, it was a solid lager, and, from what I can tell, ushered in a new dynasty at Amsterdam.  All of a sudden, they are putting out crazy seasonals and one-offs.  The Two-Fisted stout used both fists to pummel the life out of their old Irish Stout.  They opened their doors to the Southern Ontario Brewers to host an event to promote homebrewing (yeah, as in making your own beer so that you don’t have to buy other people’s).  They partnered with Toronto Beer Week to produce the TBW homebrewer’s winning beer.  And they started making beers that were in line with what is happening in brewing in North America.  Big hops and higher alcohol.  And, in my opinion, they’re killing at it.  Boneshaker IPA is epic (there’s a bottle waiting for review in my fridge).  While at the SOB brewday, we were given a sneaky taste of what was being called “Double Brown” from a bright tank.  It was nice and pretty hoppy.  I didn’t adore it, but thought it was tasty and an interesting.  It was basically their Nut Brown jacked up a bit, higher alcohol and a lot more hops.  Turns out there is a style called Double or Imperial Brown Ale, which is what this is.  So when I saw bottles of it while at Amsterdam two weeks ago, I picked up a few.  I wish I picked up more.  It’s just amazing.

CJM Brown Royale - Amsterdam Brewing Co.

CJM Brown Royale - Amsterdam Brewing Co.

From a 500ml bottle purchased at the brewery (no info or dates on the label, just a name and logo), the beer pours a very dark nearly black in the centre opaque brown.  A bit of head settles pretty quickly into a light ring and a bit of film, but leaves some lacing.  Aroma is amazing, mainly hops, herbal and earthy and green, with some very dark roasty grains in the background, nearly chocolate.  Something sweet and caramelly, but also a little bit of fresh pumpernickel bread.  Very cool.  Taste is just as cool, a crazy combination of hops (though not hitting you in the face) and lovely dark malts.  The hops are herbal again, green leafiness (I assume this was dry-hopped), nearly minty.  Some citrus peel, but it’s subtle  Not aggressively bitter, though that might be a function of the malts.  Speaking of which, they’re dark and sweet again, caramel and burnt sugar, that finish with a touch of coffee.  Finish is a bit of hop dryness, but with that hint of coffee.  So lovely.  It’s medium-light in the mouth, a nice bit of carbonation, though I bet this would be a cracker on cask.  It’s crazy drinkable, which is disturbing, as it’s 7.2%, and like I said, I think the malt/alcohol is hiding a substantial IBU.  I get the impression, if I spent an evening with a few of these, I would wake up tasting hops with a major headache.  If you can find this, drink up.  There might be a few bottles left at the Amsterdam Brewery; I have no idea about keg availability.  I would travel for this though.

Cheers Amsterdam!  If the decision-makers at Amsterdam are reading this, make more.  It’s just amazing.

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