Here’s to my first Christmas beer review of the year! Indeed, as the day grow short and the weather is grey and damp and cold (and hopefully turns to snow!), people start reaching for higher alcohol brews, often Imperial Stouts, Doppelbocks, spiced ales, Belgian-style ales, and barleywines. So when Cameron’s dropped me a few of their new Deviator Doppelbocks, it was another drop in the Christmas-is-coming bucket. Cameron’s makes a solid line-up of year-round beers in their 30 Hec brewhouse, and about a year ago, installed a pilot system for the brewing crew to get to play a bit. There have been many notable beers to come out of that spirit of innovation, though many have been limited to brewery or one-off events. Deviator Doppelbock is one of the first to be widely publicized, even if it is very limited in quantity. Doppelbocks are a style many people in Ontario aren’t all that familiar with. There’s the famous (and textbook) Paulaner Salvator, which is one of the original versions, but even that is not a beer you see on the aisle end shelves at the LCBO. Which is a shame: in a micro-beer-world high on hops and the word “imperial”, doppelbocks are big complex beers that can stand alongside any Russian Imperial Stout. Malty, sweet and boozy, with enough hops to be noticed, but never to be in the centre ring, doppelbocks have a storied past. It is said that Frater Barnabus would serve a glass to the Duke of Bavaria, and had audience with him for the duration of the drink. Given the weight and alcohol, it meant he had plenty of time to hit the Duke up for goats or whatever German monks needed in the 1700s. “Salvator” has long been the name associated with the style, so many other versions from the original used terms ending in “-ator” In Cameron’s version, they pay homage to Krampus, the demonic friend of St Nicholas who went along with him to warn and punish evil doers and deviants. He was the Deviator. Prost!
Deviator Doppelbock - Cameron's Brewing Co.
From a 341ml ISB with no freshness date, Deviator Doppelbock pours a deep dark brown, like a cup of coffee. A bit of fizzy head drops immediately, though there is a bit of carbonation activity on the surface through the glass. Aroma is immediately malty and yeasty, deep sweet caramel notes with a touch of burnt sugar are balanced with a pungent yeast tang, like the dough of a beautiful pumpernickel loaf proofing. Hints of wood and a touch of mustiness give the impression the dough is in a wooden bowl, under a well-loved tea-towel. But I’m moving into the territory of The Malt Imposters here, so I’ll dial it back a bit. Taste is lovely and sweet, dark caramel and molasses with a touch of coffee-like bitterness. There’s a bit of a spicy note that gives it a hint of cola on the mid palate. The yeast is still there, but is checked by the sweet malts, and you really need to look for it. There is simultaneously a warm alcohol finish, with a bit of a drying hop, both of which seem to eliminate any sweet or cloying linger, which is surprising, but not unpleasant. The body is actually a bit thinner than I expected it to be. It’s certainly got more weight on the tongue than, say, a pale ale, but it’s not as heavy as it’s style or abv would prepare you for. Again, this isn’t bad, just noteworthy. Carbonation is minimal, just adding a little prickle in your mouth and keeping it from being completely still. As the beer warms, more of those deep rich sweet malts are coming forward in both the aroma and taste, and it’s getting really interesting. Definitely let this one warm up a bit out of the icebox (or, if you’re like me, just sitting outside). There’s also that slight mustiness I noted in the aroma, that leaves just a slight hint of a farmhouse cheese. Note, just a tiny hint, and I would bet a lot of people would miss it. This is not a “cheesy” beer, though it would be fabulous with a nice English farmhouse cheddar and fresh baked bread. This is a great beer, and worth seeking out. From my notes that came with the beer, it is available at the Oakville brewery, as well as some bars around Toronto, keep your eyes peeled!
Cheers, Cameron’s! Keep up the innovation.
About the Brewery
Located 20 minutes from downtown Toronto in Oakville Ontario, Cameron’s Brewing Company is a creative and crafty group dedicated to brewing exceptional beers.
By adhering to traditional brewing practices, using all-natural ingredients, and most importantly, demonstrating a passion for our craft, you can think of us as ‘beer artisans’.
Cameron’s can be found at Beer Store’s and LCBO’s and can be enjoyed at fine bars, restaurants and fridges throughout Ontario.
Cameron’s. Brewed by a connoisseur…not an accountant.
